Ama Dablam Mountain Info
| Height | 6,812 meters (22,349 ft) |
| Elevation | 6,812 m (22,349 ft) |
| Prominence | 1,041 m (3,415 ft) |
| Listing | List of mountains in Nepal |
| Coordinates | 27°51′40″N 86°51′40″E |
| First summit | 1961 |
| Parent range | Khumbu Himal |
Ama Dablam is a mountain in Nepal’s Koshi Province’s eastern Himalayan range. The main peak is 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) tall. Likewise, the shorter western summit is 6,170 meters (20,243 feet). The name, Ama Dablam, translates as “mother’s necklace” since the long ridges on each side resemble the arms of a mother (ama) sheltering her child, and the hanging glacier is believed to be the Dablam, a customary double-pendant bearing images of the gods worn by Sherpa women.
This is one of the most prestigious and well-considered mountains in Nepal, as it is also present in the Nepalese one-rupee coin. Due to its towering ridges and steep faces, Ama Dablam is known as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas.” There are lots of interesting facts about Ama Dablam that is going to interest you; stay tuned till the end of this article to know more!
Ama Dablam Mountain
Ama Dablam is one of the most famous mountains of Nepal, standing tall at 6,812 meters (22 349 feet) above sea level. The peak is also the third most frequently visited Himalayan mountain for approved expeditions. It is located 162 kilometers (101 miles) north of Biratnagar and 152 kilometers (94 miles) northeast of Kathmandu. The Southwest Ridge is the most popular route to ascend Ama Dablam. Climbers normally set up three camps along the ridge after the 2006 avalanche, with Camp III directly below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam. Ice from the glaciers goes away from the left of the camp on this mountain.
Furthermore, to minimize the risks of being perished in the mountain, climbers tend to set up only two camps in Ama Dablam. No one is allowed to summit or even climb Ama Dablam without a permit or a liaison officer.
Ama Dablam is a must-climb for mountain enthusiasts as this mountain really has the best possible features and is also among the most climbed ones. The mountain is comparatively easier to climb in contrast to the taller mountains. However, it has its own dangers. Anyone who is interested in climbing alpine mountains will love to expedite Ama Dablam.
Moreover, if you want to climb a mountain like Mount Everest, it would be advisable for you first to tackle Ama Dablam. This is one of the best choices for training for a higher and more dangerous mountain with a lot lesser risks of deaths and accidents. But this really does not mean that you underestimate the reckless potential of the mountain, either.
Climbing Ama Dablam
Climbing Ama Dablam is mostly done through the Southwest Ridge section route by commercial mountaineers. Ama Dablam is a vertical mountain. Hence, anyone who considers this mountain to be an easy climb is here for a shock. Because it is not easy to climb a vertical mountain like this one. Almost every part of the peak is covered with snow and ice, hence adding up the challenging climb.
One must have very good physical fitness, sound health, as well as prior experience in mountain climbing if he wants to climb Ama Dablam. Likewise, the vertical ascent might just be one of the most difficult climbs in a mountaineer’s life. But, all the efforts will prove to be fruitful when one reaches the top and sees the most exhilarating view.
Another thing to keep in mind before attempting to climb Ama Dablam is from Camp I, the rest of the climb will be done through a rope.
Climbing to Yellow Tower
Climbing to Yellow Tower or Camp II is possibly the most challenging part of Ama Dablam’s ascent. Climbing through Camp I and Camp II is the toughest to excel. Going to the top of the Yellow Tower requires you to surpass a 90-degree vertical climb. And there are a lot of other things to consider while climbing the tower, which as carrying enough but not too much a baggage, the altitudes of the mountain at the time of the climb, enough gear, and an active state of mind, as well as the cold weather of the mountain. In rock climbing norms, the route has a rating from 4.11 to 5.7 – 5.10.
Mushroom Ridge 6250M
You must go through the mushroom ridge to finally reach the summit. This ridge is pointed like a knife, and a little tripping here and there will prove fatal. One needs to cross the ridge with caution, as there is a 600-meter fall on both sides. Hence, one must make sure to be present internally as well as externally at all times while trying to go through the mushroom ridge.
This ridge is located on the way to Camp III from Camp II.
Cost for Ama Dablam Expedition
Cost for Ama Dablam Expedition costs you differently for different time frames. It will take approximately $8250 per head for a 30-day itinerary, whereas around $10,500 per head for a 21-day express itinerary. These costs will bear all the necessary expenses for guides, reliable gear, porters, proper base camp placement, food, etc. Likewise, you are going to need a little more money for tips, tickets, lodge, accommodation, energy-giving snacks, and transportation. If you choose to get help from an expedition company, then you are most likely to reap the best possible benefits from their services in a package.
However, keep in mind that these costs do not include everything that you are going to need in your expedition.
Most important guides for Ama Dablam Expedition
There are a few things that you need to remember when you are on your way to the Ama Dablam Expedition, one of the most important ones is getting a permit from a locally registered company in the home country Nepal. You are required to get a permit from a registered Nepali company every time you climb a mountain that is above the height of 6000 meters.
Moreover, it is recommended that you take along an experienced Sherpa because mountaineering to a tall peak requires a solid team of mountain climbers who will decrease your chances of failure. If you do not have a team as such, chances of success shorten heavily.
What is the most acclimatized itinerary in Ama Dablam?
Acclimatization is as necessary as your physical fitness and the soundness of your health. Hence, when you are in Ama Dablam, make sure that you are well-acclimatized. You have to choose the best possible route, which is also the most acclimatized itinerary in your Ama Dablam expedition. Upon several climbs, mountaineers have concluded that the rotation to Camp 1 and Camp 2 is the best way to increase acclimatization.
When you climb the mountain quicker, chances are, you will either have to return due to altitude sickness or suffocation, or you just won’t make it up the top. The more acclimatization increases, the better your chances of summiting the mountain becomes.
Additionally, climbing the Island Peak or Lobuche East as a part of one’s training will also be of great help when it comes to acclimatization.
How hard is it to climb Mount Ama Dablam?
Ama Dablam’s expedition is not for the faint-hearted. Both ascending and descending are a challenge, and the climb feels nothing short of being threatened. But, with extra careful footwork and experience, one can surely ascend and descend the mountain.
This mountain is known as a “mountaineer’s mountain” for a reason! One needs to go through moraines and rocky boulders up the mountain to finally reach Camp 1 at 5800 meters from the base camp. Similarly, a 60 to 70-foot vertical climb on the granite walls starts when you cross Camp 1. Camp 2 is located on top of the Yellow Tower. And it is possibly one of the most challenging parts of climbing Ama Dablam.
Once you are through Camp 2, climbers are required to head towards the mushroom ridge to Camp 3. A summiteer should not try to attempt the climb independently as the ridge can prove to be fatal. Hence, once and only, when the guide suggests that it is safe to do the climb through the mushroom ridge, one must finally attempt to go forward.
Lastly, when one crosses Camp 3, he should make his way toward the summit. This includes a climb towards the 55-65 degree slopes. Going down from the mountain, in itself, is the biggest challenge, and for many, even tougher than ascending. When you are up such a high summit with restlessness in your body, it is difficult to descend from the mountain. You will have to focus on your foot placements with extra carefulness as a small mistake might lead to death, or at least the scariest possible accidents. Mountaineers should never let their tired legs do the thinking during the climb and the descent when in Ama Dablam.
What is the best clothing option for Ama Dablam Expedition?
Mountaineers should be mindful while choosing the clothes to wear during their Ama Dablam expedition. One just cannot compromise on quality and even expensive gear, equipment, and clothing when they are mountaineering at this peak. One should also keep in mind that the weather conditions in this mountain are cold and almost ruthless, going almost as bad as minus 10 to 20 degrees Celsius.
Some of the most important climbing gear to carry on your Ama Dablam expedition are good quality and reliable helmets, alpine ice axe, carabineers, mountaineering harnesses, rappel devices, trekking poles, etc. Similarly, good mountaineering boots, thermal mountaineering socks, base layers, breathable undergarments, gore-tex, breathable yet lightweight pants, insulated down jackets and pants, hiking shorts, glasses, etc. are necessary clothing options that you need to wear when you are on Ama Dablam expedition.
Good headgear and proper hangers are going to go a long way. Do not miss out on any of these important equipment and accessories if you want to remain comfortable and warm throughout your journey. These clothes will not only save you from the chances of frostbites but will overall save your life despite the cruel and cold conditions of the mountain.
How to train for the Ama Dablam expedition?
Before you attempt to climb just about any mountain, you need to keep in mind how you can successfully train for it. Hence, there are a few tips for you to train for the Ama Dablam expedition, like acquiring the necessary skills, otherwise known to mountaineers as pre-hypoxic acclimatization and comprehensive training preparation. Ama Dablam’s ascent is not a light topic. WI-3 or WI-4 ice climbing skills will do miracles, and people with skills anywhere under this just might not be eligible enough to climb the mountain safely. Likewise, multi-pitch climbing up to a grade of 5.10 a,b,c is just as necessary for the Ama Dablam expedition. Though a fixed rope will be taken help of, climbers should still not attempt the climb with less expertise than we have mentioned above.
There surely are some programs like Ama Dablam Express expedition that provide you with gears from the United Kingdom to help you through your journey of dreaming about summiting Ama Dablam to actually turning it into a reality. You can train through the fast-tracked and pre-designed program to best climb the mountains on days that you have planned to finish the expedition.
The pre-hypoxic acclimatization and comprehensive training preparation are likely to take you around 4 to 5 weeks at most. And, you learn how to acclimatize as well as to habituate yourself to the conditions of a mountain with as harsh conditions as Ama Dablam.
Henceforth, it is, without a doubt, important for a mountain climber to be proficient in the aforementioned aspects to successfully train for the Ama Dablam expedition.
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